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Wood Carving V-Tool Chisel |
Side View - Edge angle
The V Tool's cutting edge is best sharpened in the horizontal position (with the wheel rotating away from the user). This reduces the steel removal rate, and allows for easier sharpening of the edge to the right profile, as it is not too fast.
Guidelines shown below are for the cutting edge angles. Since the entirity of this blade's cutting surface is honed, no secondary / micro bevel is given (as with Bench Chisels).
The angle (β) is the grind angle for both cutting edges (ground first), and the keel (ground last).
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How can a person take pride in his work when skill and care are considered luxuries! We're not machines! We have a human need for craftsmanship! Unknown |
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General Guidelines |
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Material |
β |
Notes |
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Hand work |
Mallet work |
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| Softer woods | 15° | 18° | For softer woods like bass or tupelo, this works well. |
| Harder woods | 20° | 25° | For harder woods like oak, this works well. |
The Tormek SVD-186 or SVD-186 R is the recommended jig. However, for smaller or shorter tools, other jigs may be more useful.
The Tormek SVS-38 or SVS-32 Short Tool Jig may be appropriate. It is used in a similar manner to the SVD-186.
You may need to use a standard, off-the-shelf collar to guide the sharpening process. Most hardware stores carry these, or you can order one such as part number 9414T9 (7/16 inch) or 57485K68 (10 mm) from McMaster-Carr. Note : You will probably need to replace the set screw with a longer one.
The shape of the grind used is a call best made by the tool's use, based on their own experience. Additional notes are available on separate web pages for Grind Profiles, and Micro / Secondary Bevels.
If you want to grind a flat bevel on the edge and you are using a Tormek, watch the video below on using the Tormek MB-100 Muti Base and the one on using the Tormek MB-102 Multi Base. The SVD-186R Gouge Jig works well with the MB-100 and the MB-102.
I'm not a fan of this approach as it seems quite complicated; however it is an option.
Carving edges are typically not reground. It is usually done only when needed to reshape them, or repair a problem with the edge. More commonly, the edge is simply honed on the leather wheel.
Use the Projection Calculator to set the projection and USB distance from the grindstone. This calculator is web-based and does not require Excel.
A good source for the shape of a handle is The Wood Turner's Handy Book (1887), by Paul N Hasluck (see pg. 67, fig. 39).
Another source is the series of articles written by Aaron Keim, Making a New Chisel Handle for Tired Hands, (see details below).
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Ian recommends that the cutting edges be ground to 10° on both sides of the cutting edge, resulting in an α of 20°. The resulting edge looks rather like a knife. Pictures in the article explain this better.
This approach is quite different from others I've read, especially for gouges and V-tools.
Aaron noted, “Some of the most important tools in my shop are my chisels. Whether I am chopping, carving, or paring, they are in my hands all day. As I have gotten older and my arthritis/tendonitis has gotten worse, my needs have changed. In this blog, I will talk about my preferred chisel handle and show how I make a replacement handle to suit my needs.”
