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Wood Plane |
The image below shows nomenclature used in this outline. It shows a bevel up blade, but the ideas are the same for a bevel down blade (only the blade is flipped over before inserting it into the plane).
Notes are also available on a different web page for Micro / Secondary Bevels.
Edge angles
Values shown in the table below are for the Cutting Angle and the Relief Angle. As the Bed Angle is based on the plane body you are using, these are not shown. Additionally, the Front Bevel and Back Bevel can be easily determined from the Cutting Angle and the Relief Angle. To calculate these angles, use the following formulas:
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I think there is more talk and debate about the plane than there is usage of one. Rich Colvin |
Front Bevel = Cutting Angle - Bed Angle
Back Bevel = Bed Angle - Relief Angle
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General Guidelines |
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Type |
Cutting Angle |
Relief Angle |
Camber |
Notes |
| Bench Planes | 1/32” - 1/16” |
Cutting angle could be as low as 30°. When working wood wider than the blade, crown the cutting edge or round the corners (or both). Using a 10° relief angle is especially useful for Low Angle and Bevel Down planes. |
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General Purpose |
32° | n/a | ||
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Soft Woods |
27° | n/a | ||
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Low Angle |
32° | 10° | ||
| Blind Nailer | n/a | n/a | n/a |
You will need to consult someone wiser than I. (Leonard Lee’s book, The Complete Guide to Sharpening, is a good place to start.) |
| Block Planes | 1/32” - 1/16” |
Often, no cap iron is needed. Using a 10° relief angle is especially useful for Low Angle and Bevel Down planes. |
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Bevel Down |
35° | 10° | ||
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General Purpose |
32° | n/a | ||
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Soft Woods |
27° | n/a | ||
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End Grain |
45° | n/a | ||
| Bullnose Planes | 35° | n/a | None | Sharpen to be square across the front. |
| Jack Planes | 35° | n/a |
Radius of 8” - 10” |
Jack Planes generally have a greater amount of camber on the blade. TM 9-867 Maintenance and Care of Hand Tools recommends that the center of the blade project 1/16” beyond the edge corners. |
| Jointer or Trying Planes | 35° | n/a | 1/32” - 1/16” | |
| Moulding Planes | n/a | n/a | n/a |
Lap the face of the cutter. For re-sharpening or re-profiling the edge, you will need to consult someone far smarter than I. |
| Rabbet Planes | 35° | n/a | None | Sharpen square across the front. |
| Scrub Planes | 35° | n/a |
Radius of 3” - 4” |
Highly curve the cutting edge. One guide is that the camber should be 1-2x blade's width |
| Shoulder Planes | 35° | n/a | None | Sharpen square across the front. |
| Smoothing Planes | 35° | n/a | 1/32” - 1/16” | |
| Spoke Shaves | n/a | n/a | n/a |
You will need to consult someone wiser than I. (Leonard Lee’s book, The Complete Guide to Sharpening, is a good place to start.) |
The shape of the grind used is a call best made by the tool's use, based on their own experience. Additional notes are available on separate web pages for: Grind Profiles, and Micro / Secondary Bevels.
Flattening the back is really critical for the overall sharpness. There is a good video about that below.
A relief angle helps keep the force behind the cutting edge aligned with the movement of the plane (i.e., more in alignment with the surface of the wood than tangential to it). This is especially true for bevel down plane blades, and is also true for low angle planes.
Additional notes on Primary and Secondary Bevels is on the Chisel page.
SE-77 Square Edge Jig
SE-77 square edge jig Some have mentioned that it is a bit tricky to get the alignment correct for chisels using this jig. That said, this jig is very useful for cambering plane blades, so it is useful to have if you sharpen those also. Shorter chisels won't always work in this jig. The MB-102 Multi Base can alleviate this issue. If you have some of your grandfather's old chisels around which you want to use (other to open paint cans), consider using
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SE-76 Square Edge Jig
SE-76 square edge jig This is a great jig to use for sharpening chisels, including skewed edges. However shorter chisels won't always work in this jig. If you have some of your grandfather's old chisels around which you want to use (other to open paint cans), consider using the SVH-60. As with the SE-76, shorter chisels won't always work in this jig (unless using the MB-102 Multi Base). Consider using
The SE-77 has replaced this jig and the SE-76 is hard to find. |
SVS-38 Short Tool Jig
SVS-38 short tool jig This jig is also useful for sharpening chisels where there is not enough length to use either of the two jigs listed above. The older version of this jig, the SVS-32 can be used if the tool will fit into it. |
SVH-60 Straight Edge Jig
SVH-60 straight edge jig This is the original jig for sharpening chisels and plane blades. It is no longer being made which is unfortunate as it is really great for holding shorter chisels. If you have shorter chisels, consider getting one from the used tools market. The SE-77 has replaced this jig and the SVH-60 is hard to find. |
Projection Jig for the SE-76 or SE-77
3D-printed projection jig for the SE-76 or SE-77 The Projection Jig for the SE-76 or SE-77 is used with the TTS-100 for quickly setting both the USB height and the projection of the tool from the SE-76 or SE-77 jig. |
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