Japanese Wood Chisel

Japanese chisels are keenly defined by the laminated blade. The cutting edge (bottom) is a high carbon steel for maximum sharpening capabilities, and the upper edge is a low carbon steel which facilitates shock absorption and makes sharpening easier.

Guidelines shown below are for Primary Bevel Angles & Secondary bevel angles (also known as micro bevel angles). Notes are also available on a different web page for Micro / Secondary Bevels.

Chisel edge nomenclature Chisel edge nomenclature
Primary & Secondary Bevels both ground on a wheel. Primary Bevel ground on a wheel
Secondary Bevels ground on a flat stone

General Guidelines
End Profile
/ Type		 Usage Notes
Primary Bevel Secondary (Micro) Bevel

Kaku Uchi 		Soft Woods
 35°
 n/a
 An old style with only slightly raked sides. This blade profile delivers maximum power for chopping but is less versatile when paring.

Mortise chisels often have this profile.

Hard Woods
 40°
 n/a

Kinari 		Narrow (< 8 mm)
 35°
 2°
 This has longer bevels than the mentori, and the more delicate profile is excellent for paring dovetails but still retains enough mass for effective chopping.
Standard (8 - 25 mm)
 30°
 2°
Wide (> 25 mm)
 25°
 2°

Mentori 		Narrow (< 8 mm)
 		35°
 		2°
 		This is the most common blade profile. It combines heft for chopping and striking with side bevels for paring access.
Standard (8 - 25 mm)
 		30°
 		2°
Wide (> 25 mm)
 		25°
 		2°

Shinogi 		Soft Woods
 25°
 2°
 This has a low, wide-beveled blade profile which affords excellent access when paring in tight spaces. It is an un-hooped chisel, not meant for striking.

Crank-neck chisels often have this profile.

Hard Woods
 30°
 2°

Notes & Comments

Information regarding Grindstones

Grind Profile Notes: The shape of the grind used is a call best made by the tool's use, based on their own experience. Additional notes are available on separate web pages for Grind Profiles, and Micro / Secondary Bevels.

Some also advocate only using flat stones, including Toshio Odate, author of Japanese Woodworking Tools : Their Tradition, Spirit, and Use (1998), and John Reed Fox.

If you want to grind a flat bevel on the edge and you are using a Tormek, watch the video below on using the Tormek MB-100 Muti Base.

Secondary Bevel Notes: Some recommend there be no secondary bevel angle. If the user chooses to have a secondary bevel, 2° is recommend as this allows for repeated resharpening by touching up the secondary bevel only. Once this becomes too time consuming (i.e., the secondary bevel becomes too large), then you will have to regrind the primary bevel.

Hollow(s) in the Back Face : Hollow(s) in the back face should be > 1/8" (0.1250" / 3 mm) from the cutting edge. If less, tap it out as necessary. (There is a great video from Andrew Hunter on the Fine Woodworking site.)

Other Japanese Chisel Notes: giant Cypress has great information on Japanese chisel set up, and it is highly recommended.

Be sure to coat all newly sharpened surfaces with camelia oil to minimize chances for rust.

SE-77 Square Edge Jig

Some have mentioned that it is a bit tricky to get the alignment correct for chisels using this jig. That said, this jig is very useful for cambering plane blades, so it is useful to have if you sharpen those also.

Shorter chisels won't always work in this jig. If you have some of your grandfather's old chisels around which you want to use (other to open paint cans), consider using

  • SVS-38,
  • SVH-60, or
  • SE-77 with the MB-100

SE-76 Square Edge Jig

This is a great jig to use for sharpening chisels, including skewed edges. However shorter chisels won't always work in this jig. If you have some of your grandfather's old chisels around which you want to use (other to open paint cans), consider using the SVH-60.

As with the SE-76, shorter chisels won't always work in this jig. Consider using

  • SVS-38,
  • SVH-60, or
  • SE-77 with the MB-100

The SE-77 has replaced this jig and the SE-76 is hard to find.

SVS-38 Short Tool Jig

This jig is also useful for sharpening chisels where there is not enough length to use either of the two jigs listed above.

SVH-60 Straight Edge Jig

This is the original jig for sharpening chisels and plane blades. It is no longer being made which is unfortunate as it is really great for holding shorter chisels. If you have shorter chisels, consider getting one from the used tools market.

The SE-77 has replaced this jig and the SVH-60 is hard to find.

More Information

Books & Papers

Videos & Presentations

Tormek is a copyrighted logo of Tormek AB. Its presentation on this site is used to help the user quickly understand when specific Tormek tools, jigs, or setting are being used. For specific information regarding Tormek AB, or its products, please refer to the www.Tormek.com.

About this site
Remember : The goal of sharpening is to produce sharp tools, and these tools can injure you if mishandled. Safety measures should be followed to protect yourself and those in your shop. Be sure to read and follow all instructions from the manufacturer, and and utilize proper safety equipment. Never consume alcohol or anything that could impair your judgement before sharpening tools, or using sharp tools. Comments can be sent via eMail to me at SharpeningHandbook@Gmail.com.