1. Required
1. Flat, mill file
2. 60° triangular file
3. Saw set tool
2. Optional -- wooden jigs can be made
1. Saw jointer file holder
2. Rake indicating jig
3. Fleam indicating jig
4. Hand saw vise, or some form of clamp-on filing guide

Sharpening steps:

1. Clean & de-rust the saw blade; repair as necessary.
2. Joint the tops of the teeth.
3. Set the teeth.
4. Re-joint the tops of the teeth.
5. File the teeth to sharpen them.
6. De-burr the teeth (also called, “dressing” or “stoning”).
7. Wax the blade.

Drop: Older texts recommended a drop of 5°.

Drop: Older texts recommended a drop of 10°.

This hybrid approach works well with hard woods.

Rake: Higher rake angles make the saw's cutting more aggressive (and faster). For soft, fibrous woods, consider rake = 45° and increase Set.

Fleam: With fleam at 10°, a crosscut saw acts more like a modified rip saw. At 45°, it requires more resharpening and is less tolerant of variable grain alignment. For soft, fibrous woods, consider fleam = 30°.

In older texts, fleam = drop, and it is common to see both at 10°.

Rake: For general, all-around use, set to -5°. Higher rake angles make the saw's cutting more aggressive (and faster).

Fleam: For dense wood with wild grain, increase to 10°.

Drop: Older texts recommended a drop of 10°.

Notes & Comments

Another View of Filing Angles

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Triangular File Used vs. Saw TPI

Image courtesy Tools for Working Wood

Jointing the Teeth

When jointing the tops of the teeth, a saw jointer makes this easier. However, you could also use one of the jigs in the recommended books below. Engler's and Lie-Nielson's books show this best.

Setting the Teeth

When setting the teeth, a saw set is critical.

If buying one, get one with a pistol-grip, and which accommodates 4-16 TPI. The saw set I use is a Stanley model 42W. It works much better than the models 42 or 432. I have not tried the Stanley model 42S nor the model 42X, nor any of those newer ones available on eBay, so I cannot speak to their abilities.

Only set the top ¹/₂ of the teeth.

Increase Set for saws with coarse teeth. Decrease Set for saws with finer teeth.

For very fine saws, the burr from the filing may give an adequate set. If it does not, you may need to have a second saw set where you have filed down the width of the hammer. This is expecially the case for saws with 15 points per inch or more. Matt Cianci's book, Set & File, shows good pictures of this.

Filing the Teeth

When filing the teeth, the saw must be held solidly along a straight edge. The goals are to

1. ensure consistent gullet depth, and
2. ensure the angles (flame, slope, and rake) cut into the gullets are consistent.

A saw vice like the Gramercy Tools 14" Saw Vise is very good for this, but it can also be made from wood (e.g., a 2x4).

There are jigs in the recommended books below. Engler's and Lie-Nielson's books show the options best.

For the triangular file, use the specified size based on the saw's teeth per inch (TPI) as shown in the lower picture to the right.

De-Burring the Teeth

De-burring the teeth is also known as dressing the teeth, or stoning the teeth.

When de-burring the teeth, be sure to use a hard stone or file to even out the amount of set and create a consistent cutting by the saw.

French Veneer Saws

French veneer saws have a variable rake towards the center, and only have a bevel on one side. Best to have a professional re-sharpen these.

Tool Kit

Lee Valley sells three tools / jigs which are worth investigating:

1. A set of saw sharpening files in a roll which makes it easy to keep them organized. The Bahco files seem good.
2. A saw file holder which has alignment marks to make holding the files at the correct fleam angle much easier.
3. A jointer & edger which makes jointing the tops of the teeth much easier and more consistent.

Other Notes

Blackburn Tools' web page, Saw Tooth Geometry, has good visuals to explain Drop (which they call, Slope), Fleam, and Rake.

• Art of Saw Filing, Scientifically Treated and Explained on Philosophical Principles, an ebook version of the book published in 1871 by H. W. Holly.


• The Complete Guide to Sharpening, a book by Leonard Lee.


• Disston Saw, Tool and File Manual, an ebook version of the manual published in 1939 by Disston Saw. Disston Saw were the premier handsaw makers at that time. This is a really good overview.


• Elements of Saw Tooth Design, 2009. Joel Moskowitz at Tools for Working Wood published this on his blog under the title, Everything you have ever wanted to know about saw tooth design. He later added another blog posting on historical saws titled, Sherlock: The Saw Tooth Detective.


• Everything you have ever wanted to know about saw tooth design. Really nice diagrams about the terms used for the process. This is another good overview.


• How to Make Custom Saw Handles. Good article at Lee Valley Tools.


• How to Sharpen Every Blade in Your Workshop, a book by Don Geary.


• Keeping the Cutting Edge: Setting and Sharpening Hand and Power Saws, a book by Harold H. Payson.

• New Design Saw Set No. 42SS, a pamphlet from Stanley Tools on the saw sets number 42 & 43.


• Saw Filing and Management of Saws, an ebook version of the book published in 1901 by Robert Grimshaw. As noted on the opening page, this is "A practical treatise on filing, gumming, swaging, hammering, and the brazing of band saws, the speed, work, and power to run circular saws, etc.etc. A handy volume for all who have charge of saws as it deals with the proper shape and pitches of teeth of all kinds and gives many useful things and rules for gumming, setting, and filing."


• Saw Filing--A Beginner's Primer, a web page at Vintage Saw


• Saw Sharpening 101 (PDF), an article written by Matt Cianci (AKA, the Saw Wright) and published in Popular Woodworking Magazine, December 2014, ages 36-39.


• Saw Sharpening Basics (PDF), a very good document published by Blackburn Tools.


• Saw Tooth Geometry, a web page at Blackburn Tools


• Sharpening, a book by Nick Engler


• Sharpening, a book by Thomas Lie-Nielsen