|   | 
| Rose Engine Fly Cutter, Traditional | 
 
    Edge Angle
Sharpen the edge using a goniostat (or goneostat, if you prefer the Queen's English) to ensure the correct angle is maintained.
Sharpening with lapping compounds of 6, 3, 2, and finally 1 micron are recommended. The 1 micron paste should also used for resharpening via a micro bevel approach.
Additional honing information is in the Notes & Comments section below.
| Considering the tools and machinery available in the 1800s, it is amazing such beautiful works were made. They must have been better machinists than we. Rich Colvin | 
Some historical information about sharpening these is available on the Ornamental Turning Book of Knowledge.
| General Guidelines | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Usage | α | Micro bevel | Comments | 
| Hardwoods and Ivory-like Materials | 60° - 65° | 3° - 5° | This is recommended by Holtzapffel, but if the original angle is different, it is best to match that. Higher angles are recommended for reducing chatter in the cutting operation. | 
| Metal | 70° - 75° | 3° - 5° | |
 
    Examples of Historical Cutter Shapes
With regards to sharpening, the method outlined by J.H. Evans in Ornamental Turning, Chapter VI (1903) is:
The Accu-Finish machine has been used for years by machinists. These machines use diamond wheels, or a ceramic lapping wheel with a diamond spray. It is is a really great machine, especially as it has a built-in goniostat, but it can be a bit expensive.
I've found the Tormek grinder to meet my needs, though I did have to make some of my own jigs.