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General Information on Sharpening
Stone Working Tools

  
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Typical Grinding Media Used

250+ micron abrasives

Tormek

  • SB-250 Original Grindstone, graded course
  • DC-250 Diamond Wheel Course

Sorby ProEdge

  • 60 grit ProEdge Zirconium Belt

Benchtop High Speed Grinder

  • CBN wheel : <100 grit
  • Very friable grindstone : <100 grit

Shaping the Tool

Stone working tools are reshaped based on their need (as dictated by the material to be carved).

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Notes regarding shaping of tools with carbide inserts, when using a high speed grinder with a friable grindstone: DO NOT cool by dipping in water. This will cause the carbide to crack due to shocks. It is also recommended that you don't grind up to the final tool edge. The rough grit of the grindstone can create edges on the carbide which is easily susceptible to fractures.

Typical Grinding Media Used

40 - 250 micron abrasives

Tormek

  • SB-250 Black Grindstone, graded fine
  • DF-250 Diamond Wheel Fine

Benchtop High Speed Grinder

  • CBN wheel : 150-180 grit
  • Very friable grindstone : 150-180 grit

Sorby ProEdge

  • 120 grit ProEdge Zirconium Belt
  • Pedia ProEdge Diamond Belt
  • 600 grit ProEdge Trizact Belt
  • 1,200 grit ProEdge Trizact Belt

Sharpening the Tool

Stone working tools should be resharpened at the start of the day, and as needed.

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As with shaping of tools with carbide inserts, when using a high speed grinder with a friable grindstone, DO NOT cool by dipping in water. This will cause the carbide to crack due to shocks.

Typical Grinding Media Used

11 - 40 micron abrasives

Tormek

  • DE-250 Diamond Wheel Extra Fine
  • CW-220 Composite Honing Wheel
  • LA-220 Leather Honing Wheel with the honing compound
  • SJ-250 Japanese Waterstone

Sorby ProEdge

  • 3,000 grit ProEdge Trizact Belt

Benchtop High Speed Grinder

  • CBN wheel : 500+ grit

Honing the Tool

Stone working tools should be honed when carving soft stones, especially before the final cuts.

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Honing and stropping to remove the burr

Note: When honing or stropping, the side to start on is the one where the grinding was last done. If you start on the other side, the burr will get ripped off and you will probably have to re-grind the edge.

Dr. Larrin Thomas’ book, Knife Engineering: Steel, Heat Treating, and Geometry (2025), discusses burr removal quite well.