Cell Punch Tool

Edge Angle (sectional view)

The edge needs to be sharp so that it can be easily inserted into the comb and not damage the cell to be retained and used for rearing a new queen. The edge needs to be along the outside edge rather than the inside, allowing the cut wax to easily slide through the opening.

Notes & Comments

Information regarding Grindstones

How Sharp Should This Tool Be?

Example icon

Cell punches do not need to be overly sharp (thusly, the sharpness scale rating of 7). They just need to be easily used. The edges need to be smooth and free from any nicks which would damage the comb.

Sharpness scales (as shown in the grey icon to the left) are used to indicate the recommended sharpness for the blades noted above. You can click on any of the icons showing the sharpness scale and be redirected to the page describing this more. Lower numbers are duller; higher numbers sharper.

These are general recommendations; you will need to use your own judgment, based on the tool’s intended purpose.

Ongoing Maintenance

Be sure to remove all caked-on wax and propolis. A well-kept tool will last your lifetime, and will still be usable by your children (and maybe your grandkids).

I recommend trying to remove gunk mechanically first.

• A wire brush or putty knife can be useful for this. Try using a brush such as those used for cleaning rifles (and as your drill sergeant trained you, be sure to only push it through one direction: not towards the sharpened edge).
• A green or purple scrub pad works well for removing many stuck-on materials.

Propolis can be removed using a solvent. The recommended products to try are ranked below:

1. Isopropyl alcohol works well, and is less harsh than many other options.
2. Acetone works well, but be sure to wear protective clothing as this is not kind to your body, and be sure the area is well ventilated.

3. Do not use petroleum distillates like lighter fluid. This just leaves a gooey mess if there are any sugars on the tool.

4. Do NOT use bleach or trisodium phosphate. Both are oxidizers which will cause your tools to rust.

Exposure to Diseased Cells or Bees

If the tool was exposed to any diseased bees or cells, give it a quick wash with isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to rinse with water and then dry afterwards.

As noted above, the recommendation by some for using bleach or trisodium phosphate is not followed here. Those products can damage the metal in the tool.

Camellia Oil Spray Bottle

Apply a Light Coat of Oil

After using any solvent, be sure to apply a thin coat of camellia oil to the tool. I like the spray bottle of camellia oil sold by Tools for Working Wood.

• In lieu of camellia oil, jojoba oil or cedar oil are recommended by some. I've no experience with these, so I cannot recommend them. And, as camellia oil is inexpensive and readily available, it is preferred.
• There are some who advocate using olive oil as an alternative. That is not recommended as olive oil, like all vegetable oils, are more attractive to dirt and dust, making a mess.

• Do NOT use boiled linseed oil (BLO). Some advocate using BLO, but BLO often has heavy metals or other bad chemicals added for drying agents, and these are not good for you to handle, nor would they be good for the plants on which you might use this tool.

Take Care of the Handle Too

If the tool’s handle is wooden, show it a little love periodically.

1. Clean the handle and sand any rough spots. 220 grit sandpaper is excellent for this.
2. Coat the wood with a light coat of finish. A natural oil mixed with beeswax is the best option to protect the wood and to provide that a feel.

   If opting for a finish containing linseed oil, Tried & True’s Original Wood Polish is a great option. They do not use heavy metals added to aid in drying.

3. Once the oil has dried, burnish the surface. A green or purple scrub pad works well.

Tools in Storage

Tools in storage need a thin coating of camellia oil applied to all unpainted surfaces.