Bulb Planters  
When the flower blooms, the bees come uninvited.

Ramakrisna

 

I recommend sharpening the outside perimeter of the digging edge. This is much easier and safer than trying to sharpen the inside edge.

Cautionary Note: It is best to not have a very sharp edge on this. As the sides of the cone taper out towards from the bottom to the top, it is common to push the dirt out from the bottom when using this tool. If it is too sharp, you might cut your hand when using this tool.

A 6" smooth cut machinist’s hand file is useful to carry in your gardening tools box. Use it to resharpen the bulb planter as needed throughout the gardening activity.

General Guidelines
Type α Notes
Step-Upon 45°

This angle will make the tool easier to use, and the digging edge will last longer than if sharpened to a more acute angle.

Hand-held 35°

This is an option for this tool when working loose soil (i.e., soil which does not need as great a weight to push the tool into the soil). It could be as low as 30°; however that is not usually necessary and will cause the digging edge to lose its sharpeness sooner.

The more acute angle (45°) works well as an overall angle for the leading edge. It gives an edge which is less likely to be damaged if encountering rocks or other hard items in the soil.

Notes & Comments

Shaping the edge: New bulb planters I have purchased have an angle (α) of 90°. Therefore, initial shaping of the edge is to be expected.

If you use an angle grinder, consider using a 120 grit flap disc. A metal grinding wheel may be needed for large-scale shaping. In either case, be sure to not overheat the metal too much: it weakens the metal.

Sharpening the edge: Use a machinist’s hand file.

  1. Start with a 12-14" bastard file (as necessary).
  2. Next, continue with a 8-10" medium (or second) cut file.
  3. Finish with a 6" smooth cut file, then use this file to remove the burr.

Ongoing Maintenance

Be sure to remove all caked-on dirt. If left in place, this will encourage rust, even on stainless steel, and especially on the unpainted steel surfaces. A wire brush or putty knife can be useful for this. A well-kept tool will last your lifetime, and will still be usable by your children (and maybe your grandkids).


Camellia Oil Spray Bottle

Sap can be removed using a solvent. Acetone works well, but be sure to wear protective clothing as this is not kind to your body, and be sure the area is well ventilated.

After using any solvent, be sure to apply a thin coat of camellia oil to the tool. Some advocate using boiled linseed oil (BLO), but BLO often has heavy metals or other bad chemicals added for drying agents, and these are not good for you to handle, nor would they be good for the plants on which you'll use this tool.

If the tool was exposed to any diseased plants or soil which is infected with pests, give it a quick wash in diluted bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water), and then rinse with plain water. Be sure to dry afterwards, and apply a thin coat of camellia oil.

Tools in Storage

Bulb planters often get stored for a while after sharpening, so it is recommended to oil the sharpened surface with camellia oil. (Indeed, all unpainted surfaces would benefit from this.)

I like the spray bottle of camellia oil sold by Tools for Working Wood.

Another option is petroleum jelly.

About this site
Remember : The goal of sharpening is to produce sharp tools, and these tools can injure you if mishandled. Safety measures should be followed to protect yourself and those in your shop. Be sure to read and follow all instructions from the manufacturer, and and utilize proper safety equipment. Never consume alcohol or anything that could impair your judgement before sharpening tools, or using sharp tools. Comments can be sent via eMail to me at SharpeningHandbook@Gmail.com.