Guidelines shown below are for Included Angles (⍺).
Secondary Bevels are achieved during the deburring step..
If you want to get truly sharp, KnifeGrinders has a really good method and has adapted the Tormek system to these wheels. He's been nice enough to provide pictures.
Jan Svancara posted a design for using a knife sharpening platform in 2015 on the Tormek Forum. This is certainly worth reading, and there are also pictures of this in the jigs section.
CB created an excellent USB Projection Calculator which can be used to calculate the settings you will need to use with the Tormek knife jigs. His calculations have been vetted for accuracy to the sub-degree level, so I recommend this over the one I'd previously created.
Drop Point Blade
||This is a common blade and is sharpened to an angle which is good when a sharp tool is needed.
Sheep's Foot Blade
||This is a blade often used for scraping actions. Thusly, it is sharpened to a greater angle, and no secondary grind is applied.|
Spey Point Blade
||This blade is sharpened to a greater angle. This is to allow for its use on tougher materials.|
|Type||1st Deburring||2d Deburring||Notes|
|Angle||Grit size||Angle||Grit size|
|Harder steels||-0.1º to -0.3º
||3 to 6
||3º to 6º
||0.25 to 0.5
||Edge Angle Stropping - for steels which are brittle, have high hardness, are high carbon or carbide steels.|
||3 to 6
||0.4º to 2º
||High Angle Stropping - for steels which are tough or ductile, have low hardness or low carbon, or are fine carbide.|
The following scanning electron microscope (SEM) images show the burr on a knife in the 1st image, that was then “ripped off” by cutting cross-grain into a piece of redwood in the 2nd image – loss of the sharp edge is obvious.
Click on either image for bigger size.
Images courtesy Todd Simpson via Dr. Vadim Kraichuk of KnifeGrinders
Key take-away from these photos : don't skip the honing step.
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