Pocket Knives

Guidelines shown below are for Included Angles (⍺).

Secondary Bevels are achieved during the deburring step..

If you want to get truly sharp, KnifeGrinders has a really good method and has adapted the Tormek system to these wheels. He's been nice enough to provide pictures.

Jan Svancara posted a design for using a knife sharpening platform in 2015 on the Tormek Forum. This is certainly worth reading, and there are also pictures of this in the jigs section.

CB created an excellent USB Projection Calculator which can be used to calculate the settings you will need to use with the Tormek knife jigs. His calculations have been vetted for accuracy to the sub-degree level, so I recommend this over the one I'd previously created.

General Guidelines
Blade Type Notes

Drop Point Blade
This is a common blade and is sharpened to an angle which is good when a sharp tool is needed.

When sharpening a Swiss Army Knife (or knives with similar blades), no micro-bevel is added. This is due to the blade's thickness being thinner.

Sheep's Foot Blade
This is a blade often used for scraping actions. Thusly, it is sharpened to a greater angle, and no secondary grind is applied.

Spey Point Blade
This blade is sharpened to a greater angle. This is to allow for its use on tougher materials.

Use same angle for both setting the apex angle, and for edge-leading honing (up to 8,000 grit).

Deburring Guidelines
Type 1st Deburring 2d Deburring Notes
Angle Grit size Angle Grit size
Harder steels -0.1º to -0.3º
3 to 6
3º to 6º
0.25 to 0.5
Edge Angle Stropping - for steels which are brittle, have high hardness, are high carbon or carbide steels.
Softer steels
3 to 6
0.4º to 2º
High Angle Stropping - for steels which are tough or ductile, have low hardness or low carbon, or are fine carbide.

Grit size measured in µm (aka, microns)

Notes & Comments
Information regarding Grindstones

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